In Sherpa: Stories of Life and Death from the Forgotten Guardians of Everest, authors Ankit Babu Adhikari and Pradeep Bashyal take readers on a profound journey into the heart of mountaineering culture in Nepal. Set against the backdrop of the Spring 2019 climbing season, the book reflects on a time when Nepalโs mountaineering industry was just beginning to recover from the devastating avalanches that struck Everest in 2014 and 2015, a year before the global pandemic would change everything.
A Journey into the โDeath Zoneโ
The narrative opens high on Mt. Everest, where Tendi Sherpa, an internationally certified mountain guide, embarks on a climb with his 60-year-old American client. As they leave their tent at Camp 4, they ascend into the perilous โdeath zone,โ where the thin air poses severe risks to life and limb. With only 800 meters left to the summit, Tendiโs primary concern is not just reaching the top but ensuring a safe return to Camp 4, a sentiment echoed by many guides navigating these treacherous paths.
The gravity of the situation is underscored by recent events on Manaslu, where Tendi recorded a massive serac collapse near Base Camp. An avalanche claimed the life of a Nepali climber and injured ten others, highlighting the ever-present dangers of high-altitude climbing. For Sherpas, the risks are compounded as they endure the harsh conditions of the Khumbu Icefall and death zone for longer durations than their clients, often without the same recognition or protection.
Beyond the Summit: The Lives of Sherpa Guides
Adhikari and Bashyal aim to go beyond the physical challenges of climbing to explore the lives, dreams, and destinies of the Sherpa peopleโthose whose names have become synonymous with support and guidance in the climbing lexicon. The book provides a nuanced portrayal of the Sherpa community, challenging the tendency to exoticize and view them as mere sidekicks in the climbing narrative.
The authors poignantly ask, โCan climbing Everest ever be โa picnicโ for anyone?โ as they illuminate the realities of over-commercialization and its toll on both the environment and the Sherpa culture. The impact of the climate crisis is palpable, altering the very nature of mountaineering and the experiences of those who live in its shadow.
A Changing Landscape
The narrative emphasizes that Sherpas are not just climbers by trade; many are now pursuing their passion for adventure, financing their climbs by taking clients along. This shift is notable, as the labor traditionally performed by Sherpas is increasingly being taken over by other ethnic groups in Nepal, as seen with the recent death of a Rai guide on Manaslu.
Rather than exploring the often vague question of why people climb, Adhikari and Bashyal cast a wide net, tracing the history of mountaineering in the Himalayas and expanding their focus geographically from Khumbu to Darjeeling and even the United States. They delve into the aspirations and motivations of climbers, weaving tales of ambition, endurance, and the ever-present legends and superstitions that accompany the Sherpa experience.
One standout chapter of the book is dedicated to women climbers, celebrating their achievements and contributions to the mountaineering world. The authors deftly capture the Sherpaโs complex relationship with the mountains, linking their love for climbing to their love stories back home.
Sherpa: Stories of Life and Death from the Forgotten Guardians of Everest is more than just a chronicle of mountain climbing; it is a poignant tribute to the Sherpa community and their enduring spirit. Adhikari and Bashyal skillfully blend personal narratives with broader cultural insights, providing readers with a deeper understanding of the people who navigate the dangers of Everest and the emotional landscapes intertwined with their lives.
This book serves as a vital reminder of the complexities of mountaineering, urging us to listen to the stories of those who have been integral to this adventure while grappling with the broader implications of climbing in the modern age.
Amazon โ Sherpa: Stories of Life and Death from the Forgotten Guardians of Everest
References
Bashyal, P., & Adhikari, A. B. (2022). Sherpa: Stories of Life and Death from the Forgotten Guardians of Everest
