Background on Dr. Tarana Husain Khan
Dr. Tarana Husain Khan is an Indian writer, cultural historian, and food historian based primarily in Rampur, Uttar Pradesh. Her work explores the intersections of gender, history, culture, and oral traditions, with a particular emphasis on the culinary heritage of Muslim South Asia. Khan’s academic and creative pursuits have earned her recognition as a key figure in preserving and reviving forgotten aspects of India’s food culture.
Born into a family that valued education and literature—her father was an IAS officer and her mother emphasized reading—Khan’s early life involved frequent relocations across small towns in Uttar Pradesh. This itinerant childhood fostered a deep appreciation for storytelling and cultural diversity, which later shaped her career. Her return to Rampur in 2010, coupled with the discovery of 19th-century Persian cookbooks in the Rampur Raza Library, marked a turning point, igniting her passion for food history. She lives between Rampur and Nainital with her husband, balancing her roles as a researcher, novelist, and curator of cultural narratives.
Khan’s broader body of work includes the historical novel The Begum and the Dastan (2021), which won the Kalinga Literary Award for fiction, and Degh to Dastarkhwan: Qissas and Recipes from Rampur (2022), a personal exploration of Rampuri cuisine. Her essays have appeared in prominent outlets like Scroll.in, Eaten Magazine, and The Wire, and she has contributed to anthologies such as Desi Delicacies and Dastarkhwan. She also curates a website on Rampur’s culture and oral history, reflecting her commitment to documenting vanishing traditions.
Her collaboration with the University of Sheffield on the Arts and Humanities Research Council-funded project “Forgotten Food: Culinary Memory, Local Heritage and Lost Agricultural Varieties in India” (2019–2023) underscores her scholarly rigor. As a research fellow and consultant, she worked alongside historians, chefs, and scientists to revive heritage recipes and explore the socio-cultural dimensions of food.
II. Overview of Forgotten Foods: Memories and Recipes from Muslim South Asia
Forgotten Foods: Memories and Recipes from Muslim South Asia (Pan Macmillan India, 2023) is an anthology co-edited by Tarana Husain Khan, Claire Chambers (Professor of Global Literature at the University of York), and Siobhan Lambert-Hurley (Professor of Global History at the University of Sheffield). Published on October 31, 2023, the book is a culmination of the “Forgotten Food” project and features contributions from a diverse group of historians, literary scholars, plant scientists, writers, and chefs. It comprises essays, personal narratives, and recipes that illuminate the rich, often overlooked culinary traditions of Muslim communities across South Asia.
The book is organized into four thematic sections:
- Memories: Family histories and personal recollections tied to food, spanning distant and recent pasts.
- Identities in Flux: Scholarly explorations of how culinary cultures evolved amid societal changes.
- Survival and Revival: Tributes to “food warriors”—families, vendors, farmers, and festival organizers—preserving fading traditions.
- A Dish in Time: Focused studies of individual dishes, celebrating regional diversity.
Spanning 296 pages, Forgotten Foods traverses geographies from Ladakh to Sri Lanka, offering a tapestry of stories and flavors. It highlights dishes like shami kababs, qormas, biryanis, khicheris, and lesser-known items such as Kerala’s jeeraga kanhi and Kashmir’s saada saag. The book has been praised for its blend of nostalgia, history, and practical recipes, earning a 4.4-star rating from 53 reviews on Amazon.in as of April 2025.
III. Themes and Contributions of the Book
Forgotten Foods serves as both a cultural archive and a call to action, addressing the imminent loss of historic dishes tied to Muslim South Asian heritage. Key themes include:
- Culinary Memory and Identity: The book underscores how food transcends geographical, religious, and social boundaries. For instance, Moneeza Hashmi’s essay on her father Faiz Ahmed Faiz’s simple tastes highlights dishes shared across the India-Pakistan border, while Khan’s own work on Rampur’s heritage rice varieties ties food to local identity.
- Preservation of Lost Traditions: Khan’s discovery of Bhopal’s “gupchup shami kababs” and her fieldwork in Rampur’s paddy fields exemplify efforts to resurrect recipes and ingredients at risk of oblivion. The book documents the decline of these traditions post-1970s, attributing it to factors like the abolition of privy purses and the reluctance of traditional cooks (khansamas) to share knowledge.
- Diversity and Inclusion: Contributions from writers like Rana Safvi, Sadaf Hussain, and Rizvina Morseth de Alwis showcase the breadth of Muslim foodways, from Manipuri Pangal cuisine to Sri Lankan Malay recipes. This diversity challenges monolithic perceptions of South Asian Muslim food culture.
- Interdisciplinary Approach: By blending academic research with personal storytelling and practical recipes, the book appeals to scholars, food enthusiasts, and home cooks alike. It bridges the gap between history and lived experience, making it a unique contribution to global food studies.
IV. Reception and Impact
Forgotten Foods has been well-received for its depth and accessibility. Readers on Goodreads and Amazon laud its “thoughtful weaving of narrative and history” and its role as “a valuable archive for future generations.” Critics note its relevance in an era of religious conflict and food bans, positioning it as a subtle yet powerful tool for understanding Muslim communities through their kitchens. However, some reviews critique the occasional disconnect in tone, particularly with Pakistani contributors’ focus on servants and elite households, which feels out of step with the book’s broader ethos.
The book’s impact extends beyond its pages. It has inspired initiatives like the Jashn-e-Rampur food festival in Delhi (October 2022), where Khan and collaborators showcased 17 reimagined Rampuri recipes. Plans for further festivals and pop-up restaurants signal its influence on culinary revival efforts.
Dr. Tarana Husain Khan emerges as a pivotal figure in the resurgence of South Asian culinary heritage, with Forgotten Foods standing as a testament to her vision. Her journey from an “indifferent eater” to a passionate historian reflects a personal and professional commitment to preserving the past for the future. The book, with its rich narratives and recipes, not only celebrates the flavors of Muslim South Asia but also challenges readers to reconsider the stories behind their meals. For scholars, cooks, and cultural enthusiasts, Forgotten Foods offers a flavorful lens into a world that might otherwise fade from memory.
